After some searching across the web I found that there wasn’t a very good write up on the step by step procedure to enable a TFTP daemon on Ubuntu (my choice for linux servers). I had actually messed around with the tftpd package, but in the little bit I was able to find I determined I wanted to use the ‘atftp’ and ‘atftpd’ packages available in Ubuntu’s universe repositories due to more adoption in instructions that were available. In what I’ve been able to determine, both the server daemon (atftpd) and the client program (atftp) are necessary on the server (computer). The reasoning, as best as I’ve been able to determine, is that the server (daemon) only makes the files available. The client (program) does all of the “work” in negotiating connections between each other, so a client (program) is necessary on both the server (computer) and the client (computer). I hope that made sense.

So that you have a baseline of expectations, I’ll be open with the specs and configuration of the server I’m using:

• Ubuntu Server 10.4 Lucid Lynx x86 (32 bit)
• Dual 1.4Ghz Pentium3 CPUs
• 512MB RAM
• Running as Guest OS on VMWare ESXi 3.5 Update5

Now, let’s get atftpd installed.

1. Get Root.

   sudo -i

2. Install atftpd.

   apt-get install atftpd

3. Edit atftpd’s configuration.

   pico -w /etc/default/atftpd

   change “USE_INETD=true” to “USE_INETD=false”

   ctrl+x, enter, y

4. Start atftpd.

   invoke-rc.d atftpd start

5. Add the tftp directory.

   cd /srv

   mkdir tftp

   chmod 777 tftp

   chown nobody:nogroup tftp

6. Restart atftpd.

   /etc/init.d/atftpd restart

7. Install the client (program).

   apt-get install atftp

8. Done!

At this point, use your favorite SCP client (program) to upload any firmware files to the /srv/tftp folder. Once it is uploaded, point the tftp location in your firmware update process to your newly deployed tftpd server. Easy enough!

Thanks for visiting, if you have any questions feel free to comment below and I’ll do my best to reply and help you out.

If you run into this same issue with a memory error and the following error in the server console window:

workthreadpool.cpp (296) : Assertion Failed:CWorkThreadPool::StopWorkThreads: Some threads required forcible termination.

The fix is to update your cfg/mani_admin_plugin/gametypes.txt with the one generated here at the Mani Admin Plugin’s site.

It took me a bit to find this fix, so hopefully the search engines were nice to you and directed you here.

1. sudo -i
2. apt-get update
3. apt-get upgrade
4. apt-get install build-essential binutils linux-headers-$(uname -r)
5. mount /dev/scd0 /cdrom
6. cp -a /cdrom/VMwareTools* /tmp/
7. cd /tmp/
8. tar -vxzf VMwareTools*.gz
9. cd vmware-tools-distrib/
10. ./vmware-install.pl

CD-ROM mount point may vary. Accept all defaults for vmware-install perl script.

This post won’t outline how to use Synergy, but rather just how to take care of the little things that will keep it from being a good experience on Windows Vista/7. I’m writing the rest of this post for those that are already familiar with Synergy, and instructions are targeted at Windows 7 Professional users.

Anyways, I was running into problems with my Synergy client on my home-office setup. I have a laptop docked with a second monitor for my office computer (operating as the Synergy client), and then a single monitor rig in portrait-orientation for my home computer (operating as the Synergy server). I use Display Fusion, which runs as an administrator-level service on my desktop, and I use the multi-monitor taskbar available on the paid version of the software. I was unable to use the Synerg-ized mouse to select a window on that Display Fusion taskbar, and considering that was my 24” monitor where a lot of my work takes place it would be a huge problem if the laptop didn’t have a keyboard. On top of that, every time the client computer would prompt for UAC approval for various things, I would lose the ability to use my G5 mouse and G15 keyboard on my office laptop.

I knew you could auto-elevate privileges, but just hadn’t taken the time to do it. Let’s get that out of the way, as that’s the first thing I noticed in the problems I was having.

Step 1. Open secpol.msc

Step 2. Set UAC Behavior for Administrators to ‘Elevate without prompting’

Next up is configuring Synergy to run as Administrator. I want to note that this was my initial guess as to why it wasn’t allowing me to Auto-start on computer start, however even after forcing it to run as Administrator and installing the Auto-start service, it still wasn’t working. I found out this is due to the way the System user interacts (or rather doesn’t) with the user’s desktop.

Step 3. Run Synergy as Administrator.

Right click on the shortcut for Synergy, and click the Advanced… button. Check the “Run as administrator” box.

Step 4. Auto-start Synergy on Log-in

Step 5. Start Synergy!

Follow these steps on both the server and client if they’re both Windows 7 machines, it’s just that simple.

So, for starters, lets take a look at what your normal car kit should have:

1. Basic First Aid Kit (for minor cuts, scrapes, burns)
   • Ideally, this is just for the little stuff you will inflict upon yourself from being clumsy working under the hood.
   • You might also want to add some kind of hand-sanitizer or cleaner.
   • Put this in a gallon sized ziploc bag.
2. Flashlight (extra batteries are always a good idea)
   • I’d have to say the 2x AA MagLites are perfect for this kit, though, if you want something smaller there’s a MagLite “Solitare” that uses 1x AAA battery.
   • I carry a 2x D-cell MagLite in my vehicle at all times, with an extra pair of batteries in the glove compartment. It’s size and weight has made it useful as a makeshift hammer to be used on my starter solenoid when the vehicle wouldn’t crank, such that I got it working so I could roll into the mechanic.
   • Add the small flashlight to your glove compartment. If you keep a larger flashlight I’d recommend keeping it up beside you, or under you at the driver’s seat.
3. Jumper Cables
   • You always need them when you don’t have them, and someone else usually needs them when you have them. You might as well keep them so at a minimum you can do your good turn of the day.
   • Put these inside the Action Packer.
4. Duct Tape
   • Do I really need to explain the usefulness of even a partial roll of this stuff? If so, go watch some MacGuyver.
   • Put it inside your Action Packer.
5. Simple Hand Tools
   • At the very minimum you should carry a pair of Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat) and some Channel-Lock Adjustable Pliers. The utility in these alone coupled with a pocketknife and duct tape can get you a few extra miles down the road. If you know what problems your vehicle is more likely to have, and you’ll need other tools be sure to add them.
   • Put these inside a toolbox (if you carry many tools), or the Action Packer.
6. Pocketknife
   • It’s the Eagle Scout in me, but see my notes for Duct Tape.
   • Put this in your glove compartment.
7. Water
   • Water serves a dual purpose when kept in a vehicle: To keep yourself hydrated, or to keep the vehicle cool (in case of low fluids). I highly recommend keeping at least 2 liters of water with you (3-4 water bottles).
   • Put this in your Action Packer.
8. Misc. Automotive Fluids
   • I usually carry Oil, premix anti-freeze, and a funnel.
   • It’s a good idea to toss a couple automotive paper towels, or a scrap piece of an old shirt for spills.
   • If you can fit these in a ziploc inside the action packer, I highly recommend it in case of a leak or spill.

The above items tend to get you through most of what you’ll need if your car breaks down. In most cases you’ll be able to get help relatively easy, or it should be close by. But when the winter weather hits, you may not be able to get help for a good number of hours, and it is most important that you can stay warm.

Here are my tips for what to add to the trunk for winter weather:

1. Blanket
   • Indispensable when needed to stay warm, and nice to have for long car rides for any passengers that wish to rest.
2. Light Snack
   • Make sure it’s something that won’t melt if it gets too hot, but that will provide some calories. It is important that your body is able to generate enough heat to keep you warm underneath the blanket. Don’t gorge yourself on super-sweets, you don’t want to get sick. Trail Mix is typically a good bet.
3. Hand Warmers
   • Only necessary when you’re stuck for longer periods of time, but very helpful to restore body heat when the blanket just isn’t cutting it.
4. Ice Scraper
   • If you have adequate insulation, the energy you put into scraping ice off of your car will keep you warm. It also allows you to keep an eye out for any assistance that may come your way. Try not to get wet though, it’s counter-productive in staying warm.
5. Large bag of Cat Litter
   • Another dual-purpose item. This is most important for those of you with lightweight two-wheel drive vehicles. It adds weight for traction, and if you open the bag you can put it on the ground underneath your tires for added traction when the weight alone isn’t enough. Just keep in mind that “gunning” the gas isn’t going to help you: stay in a low gear and apply steady pressure to the accelerator pedal.

I can’t stress enough how important it is to know how and when to use these items. Knowing how your vehicle works and what your body needs to stay warm will save you a lot of stress if you ever encounter a situation where you need these tools. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them in the comments section below. I’ll be happy to address them.

A note on the links I supply on my blog: I am not paid by CampMor or Amazon or any other site, I simply link to those sites because I trust their products and personally use them. Though, if they wished to sponsor some Ad Space on my site, I would certainly accept an offer

For the most part we followed the itinerary I outlined in the “Planning for a Backpacking Trip” post. Though, because we purposely didn’t take watches or cell phones we didn’t exactly stick to a schedule which meant we had to cut a couple of the bigger hikes out of the day(s). Part of it may have also been due to the literal downpour we received on Friday evening and Saturday morning. We’ll go back later one or two weekends to finish up the Cloudland Canyon trails.

With the successful trip, I’m going to be planning a “car camping” trip for sometime in Mid-December or Early/Mid-January so more of my friends can come along, and enjoy some better camp-cuisine. I’ll have a couple of posts related to that coming up soon enough.

View the full post for the pics from this weekend.

Mark’s Flickr Set

Nathan’s Flickr Set

After getting my first one together I modified the plans a bit and made a second one with the goal to have it hold a bit more fuel (for the longer cooking time). Version 2, as I’ll call it, was able to produce a 7-minute boil time, and a 20-minute run time before dropping down to a simmer. I used a windscreen and Heet as my fuel source.

Instructions after the jump!

What you’ll need:

• 2x Aluminum Cans (soda or beer)
• 1x Piece of 200-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge
• 1x Utility knife and extra blade(s)
• 1x Drill and a 1/16″ bit
• 1x Penny
• 1x Pinch of Fiberglass Insulation (from your attic) or Perlite (from your Home + Garden store)
• 1x Yellow Bottle of HEET from Automotive section of your local Walmart (I’ve heard bad things happen when you use the red bottle) or Denatured Alcohol from a paint supply store.

Assembly Instructions:

1. Sand the bottom 2-3 inches of the aluminum cans clean from any paints, dyes, sealants, etc.
2. Cut the bottom of the cans off, an inch for the first one, 3/4 of an inch for the second one.
3. Clean the cans and sand the rough edges so they’re less likely to cut you.
4. Put your pinch of insulation or perlite in the base (this is the “taller” cut-off can).
5. Drill a grouping of 5 holes in the center of the burner (the “shorter” cut-off can), this will be your filling holes. (Figure 1)
   

   Figure 1

6. Drill 12-16 evenly spaced holes around the outside edge of the burner. (Figure 1)
7. Make 4-6 evenly spaced cuts towards the burner holes (only go up to the curve in the can) so the sharp edges of the burner can be bent ever so slightly inwards to fit snugly into the base.
8. Put the two pieces together, they should snug up with a little bit of pressure but be careful as you’re working with sharp edges of aluminum.

Lighting Instructions

1. Open your bottle of HEET (or Denatured Alcohol) and pour such that your stove is 1/2 to 3/4 filled. Overfilling will only cause the stove to take longer to light, and could lead to spills which can be very dangerous.
2. Put the penny over the filling hole.
3. Fill the lighting cup (that’s what it becomes when you put the penny over the filling holes) with your fuel.
4. Light the fuel in the lighting cup.
5. Hopefully, there was enough fuel in the lighting cup burning long enough to heat the alcohol in the base such that the burner lit from the alcohol fumes. Repeat steps 3-4 as necessary.

Success!

Using my GSI Pinnacle cook kit, a quart of water, a coat hanger (that I fabricated into a pot rest), the windscreen, and the stove; I was able to make a bowl of rice in about 17 minutes. The coat hanger wasn’t as sturdy as I would have liked, but I could have taken a little more time and designed a better one that would support more weight.

One of the foreseeable problems I have with this stove is the same problem my MSR WhisperLite had: if it was cold, it took awhile for the stove to heat up to the point that the fuel would evaporate to produce a good cooking flame. Another is regards to the fact that it doesn’t have a long burn-time. Other than that, it’d be great for trail-side lunches that require heated water.

Now you can build an ultra-lightweight stove, boil water in 7 minutes, and still have enough heat to cook a boil in the bag rice. Not bad at all for less than $2 in materials!

Packs & Sleeping

Tent, poles, stakes, groundcloth
Sleeping bag
Sleeping pad
Backpack
Day pack (small school backpack)
Rain cover for backpack (trashbags work well)

Essentials

Water Bottle (32oz or more)
First Aid Kit
Sun Protection
Bear Bag
Rope
Knife
Flashlight
Rain gear (poncho or light wind-breaking rain jacket)

Clothing

Ziplock freezer bags (to pack clothes in to stay dry)
Boots or trail shoes (ankle support)
Camp shoes
Socks (pack an extra pair)
Underwear
Light Pants
Light Shorts
Light Shirt(s)
Light Jacket or Long Sleeve Shirt(for warmth)
Cap or hat

Cooking & Food

Pot (1 per group of 4-6)
Cooking Utencils
Camp Suds (environmentally safe soap)
Dish Cloth
Cup
Stove
Fuel
Lighter
Water Container (for cooking, etc)
Breakfasts (Oatmeal, fried potatoes, cereal, protein bars)
Lunches
Dinners
Snacks (peanuts, raisins, oysters, crackers, jerky)
Spices (Salt, Pepper, Garlic, Cayenne)
Drink Mix (Gatorade, CapriSun, Tang, Hot Chocolate)

Optional Items

Camping pillow (a ball of clean clothes works well too)
Insect Repellant
GPS
Camera
Extra Batteries
Binoculars
Camp Chair
Fishing gear
Cards + games
Hiking Stave or Poles

Some of you may catch some information that could prove useful. I hope the tags I add to the post helped direct you here for some useful purpose (if not your intended search).

http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/2204933

Selected Slumberjack Sleeping Bags

Sleeping bags are arguably one of the top 5 most important items to take with you on any overnight expedition in the outdoors. So when you head to the store searching for a sleeping bag for the first time you may be surprised to find how many options you have. As with all gear guides I have or will be publishing I’ll apply my thoughts and knowledge to the topic and let you decide for yourself by getting informed. The goal of this article is that you find that the multiple options you are presented with to be less than overwhelming, and to select the right piece of equipment for the right application.

There are a handful of things to think about when selecting what bag is right for the job:

1. Design Type (Rectangular, Mummy, Mate-able)
2. Insulation (Synthetic, Down, Cotton/Wool)
3. Temperature Rating
4. Craftsmanship and Material (zipper, drawstring, fabric)

Design Type Considerations

Rectangular sleeping bags are probably the most recognizable design type to the unfamiliar shopper. It is most simply described as a filled/insulated blanket that can be folded in half and zipped on two sides to create a pocket for you to sleep in. Though they can be used in cold weather, the opening at the top of the pocket in most rectangular bags allows for a significant leak in the insulated warmth the bag provides and will allow cold air drafts to enter the bag. That being said, these bags are the easiest to pack due to their simple design and are fantastic in warm weather. Mate-able sleeping bags are most commonly a rectangular sleeping bag that are made such that you zip two of them together to create a large sleeping bag, this is a method for couples to be able sleep together (leading the type to be a double entendre?).

Slumberjack's Solera 15° Mummy

Mummy style sleeping bags are better for colder weather camping by design. The name describes their look perfectly, they taper from head to foot reducing the surface area and volume. By reducing the surface area and volume it takes less body heat to bring the insulation to a comfortable level, and increases their ability to keep heat from escaping. A drawstring at the head end of the bag to pull the top of the bag around your head, further increasing heat retention of the bag. Typical mummy bags do not have a zipper in the foot end of the bag because the zipper is one of the weakest points in the insulation of a sleeping bag and the toes are one of the more vulnerable parts of the body regarding heat loss. If you are purchasing a mummy bag for use by a female camper there are special considerations made by some manufacturers – construction differences in the female bags are additional material in the torso and hip areas to accommodate the differences in body type.

Insulation and Temperature Ratings

Polarguard3D, a synthetic fill material.

As I mentioned earlier the typical insulation used in sleeping bags are synthetic, down (feathers),  cotton, and wool. The features we will be looking at specifically in each of the different types of insulation is loft(or resistance to compression), weight, water absorption and retention, and cost. Loft is important because the more space insulation takes up the greater the r-value (thermal resistance). Reducing the amount of heat lost is the goal of a sleeping bag so this is a vital consideration, though some materials have higher r-values for less material used. Weight of material is a consideration anytime weight plays a pivotal role in the amount of gear you take, specifically backpacking. Water absorption and retention is more of a consideration as for how miserable you could be if your bag gets wet.

Wool is known for its properties of water repulsion and resistance to compression though it weighs more than just about any fill material used in sleeping bags. Cotton does not repel water well at all and weighs marginally more than all materials aside from wool but it is cheap and can pack much smaller than wool. If you are going cabin camping or to a sleepover in some form these materials are a great choice for those situations and others where the drawbacks are not of major concern.

Synthetic materials provide the highest r-value per inch versus the other fill materials, have the best water absorption and retention qualities (virtually none of either), dries easy, and even provides insulation while wet – a lifesaving feature that can prevent common cases of hypothermia while wilderness camping. Synthetic fill also insulates well under compression (like laying on the bag, for instance) and lofts quickly to provide maximum insulation faster. The drawbacks to these properties are that it does not compress easily and therefore requires more space to store than easily compressed materials, it also weighs more than down. Down fill is one of the best heat retainers of fill material by density. It also costs the most, and is nearly useless when wet.

Craftsmanship and Material

As with most things, the quality of the material and attention to detail in the craftsmanship in sleeping bags is directly proportional to the life of the bag. A couple of things you may want to look out for when choosing a bag is the zipper and material surrounding the zipper. Will the zipper get caught in the bag? Will the zipper jam easy or bind on itself? One of my favorite bags had a nylon webbing material that surrounded the zipper teeth such that the fabric on the inside and outside of the bag were kept out of the way of a closing zip. Unfortunately, the zipper pull itself was not constructed of hardened material and the zipper failed due to other circumstances. Another feature to check the material and craftsmanship on is any drawstring attached to the bag. Is the drawstring secure to the bag, or simply attached by a single stitch at a fold? Is the cord itself resistant to rot over long periods of time? Lastly, the fabric used for the inside and outside of the bag needs to be investigated. Is the fabric thin and easily worn out after a few dozen times in and out of the stuff sack or is it durable? Does the external shell of the bag resist water, stains, or other environmental factors that may play a part in the breakdown of material? Does the inner material warm up quickly to the touch? All of these questions should be in the back of your mind when investigating the construction of a sleeping bag.

Care and Storage

Care of your bag will be a concern if you plan to keep the bag for many trips, particularly keeping it clean. After each trip I take, I open my bag and turn it inside-out to lay it on a clothes line or the back of a couch. Airing it out helps prevent it from getting smelly quickly. If after a dozen trips or more it gets to the point where it no longer supports breathing, there are specialized detergents designed with your sleeping bag and other camping gear in mind. Most, if not all, sleeping bags will include instructions for washing on a tag either attached to the bag or a storage sack. Typically they will tell you to use a hand washing method, or a front-loading (non-agitating) washing machine with light amounts of detergent (like woolite or a specialized soap) in warm water. Air drying or press drying are highly recommended for drying a washed sleeping bag. Do NOT dry-clean a down sleeping bag unless the manufacturer explicitly recommends it, as the chemicals used will strip the feathers of natural oils necessary in keeping the insulating value of down.

With all materials settling will occur causing cold spots to appear in the bag if care is not taken to minimize the amount of settling. Down is the fill material most affected by this, so much so that while in periods of extended storage it should be kept in a large back so it is not forcibly compressed. Short periods of time, like while packed in a backpack, are okay for this compression but will continually degrade the loft and insulation characteristics of the bag.